Author's Note: This illustration is not intended as a specific endorsement for any particular brand of dive gear. Within most of the categories of dive gear, there are several manufacturers that offer quality options.

Although some elements of underwater photography will always be a challenge--from skittish marine life to turbid water and corrosive salt--there is one element that is controllable: quality dive gear whose design makes your job easier, not harder.

After over 20 years of earning a living by taking underwater images, I think I've finally got it down: the gear that works best for me, ergonomically and photographically. My selection process has been some trial and much error. Maybe these tips can shorten your learning curve by a decade or two.

Low-profile goggle-type: to put your eye closer to viewfinder and facilitate corner-to-corner vision.

Magnifying lens: even under-40 eyes may have trouble with Nikonos frame counters, instrument readings and small sea life--especially at night. Alternatively, custom precription corrective lenses.

Allows close view: through the camera's viewfinder.

Exhaust bubbles: do not interfere when you are motionless in upright position, the most common pose for photographers.

Dependable, requires minimum maintenance: photographers tend to dive a lot and need surface time to maintain photo gear, not dive gear.

High performance: photographers also tend to dive more aggressively. Consult RSD ScubaLab equipment reviews.

Do not attach to mask while shooting: unless you want your hair pulled and viewfinder obstructed.

Strap to inflator hose: or some other place in line with your gear and body when swimming to minimize drag.

Integrated octopus: to eliminate one more hose and second stage to snag and drag.

What About Snorkeling/Free-Diving Gear? Some marine encounters allow only snorkeling gear: the spotted dolphins of Grand Bahama, the humpbacks of Silver Bank, the whale sharks of Ningaloo. Some free-diving gear is better suited to these circumstances than scuba gear: Long-blade fins: maximum power is needed in many of these encounters. Wetsuit: with as little bulk as you can get away with. Check out the new "neoprene skins." Remember, you will often be swimming vigorously. Your thermal needs may be less than with scuba.

5. Alternate Air Source
Octopus: since it's integrated with inflator, be expert at using it and passing your primary to a buddy.

Redundant air source: especially if you're shooting deep, inside a wreck or other overhead environment. Same for your model.

6. Dive Computer
Essential: for multi-level diving done by photographers.

Wrist-mounted: to avoid having to fumble with hands full.

Air-integrated back-up: for additional safety.

7. Watch
Back-up bottom timer: because true redundancy requires a third component.

Batteries: more reliable than those in a dive computer, or better yet, self-winding.

8. Gauge Clips
Should streamline gear: next to your body for efficiency.

Should streamline gear: next to your body to protect the reef.

Pockets: large, accessible and secure for diffusers, light meters, etc.

Weight-integrated: for balance and elimination of another piece of gear.

D-rings: that can accommodate clips for a camera or two.

Layers: more efficient and less buoyant than thicker neoprene.

Layers: allow you to customize according to what gets coldest the soonest on you.

Enough power: to handle currents or pursue a whale shark.

Full pocket or open heel: your choice, but booties are most comfortable for multiple dives.

Ikelite's digital: my preference for accurate readings with large LED readout that is easy to read at a glance.